The Western Mediterranean -- loosely composed of Italy's western coast, France's southern rim, the entire ring of coastal Spain and on up through Lisbon -- not only is the perfect cruise region for new-to-Europe travelers but also enchants even those folks who've returned again and again.
What makes the region so fabulous? The credit goes at least in part to a fantastic collection of major cities -- Naples, Rome, Florence, Monte Carlo, Barcelona, Nice, Seville and Lisbon -- all with profound histories. But the region's smaller, multifaceted towns are also appealing, especially for repeat visitors, offering a more intimate experience. These include Taormina, Positano, Cinque Terre, Villefranche, Cannes, Avignon and Malaga. And then again there are the islands that are at once worlds of their own, yet distinctly reminiscent of their country's cultures; we love Corsica, Capri, Elba, Ibiza and Mallorca in particular.
Most itineraries, with the exception of "greatest hits" trips, offer a nice balance of marquee cities and offbeat ports in which your ship will be the only one in town. The obvious advantage is that Western Mediterranean cruises without a doubt offer the most of the most -- arts and culture, surf and sand, cafe hopping and boutique shopping. But sitting down to actually plan the perfect Western Mediterranean cruise can be daunting for a number of reasons. The primary challenges:
Today's traveler is spoilt for choice -- there is a dizzying number of ships and itineraries on offer for varying budgets; in fact, there are more ships deployed in the Mediterranean from 2008 forward than ever before. Carnival, NCL, Princess, Celebrity and Royal Caribbean all have a large presence in the Western Med, and these are just the traditional U.S.-based lines. European lines are adding ships and routes nearly on a daily basis, so you can also choose from Costa Cruises, MSC Cruises, Fred. Olsen, Island Cruises and P&O. If it's a bit of luxury you crave, you have your choice of several ships and cruise lines: Silversea, Crystal, Seabourn and Hebridean all sail the Western Mediterranean during the summer months. And for those wanting a more offbeat experience, smaller lines like Star Clippers and Windstar are continually ferreting out new and little-known ports of call.
Beware of tourist burnout. There is so much to see and so little time -- and many itineraries make little concession in the way of sea days for some relaxation. If you don't want to "waste" your cruise on too many days at sea, do make a conscious effort to pace yourself on land. For instance, after an intense day of Pompeii sightseeing while docked in Naples, make Sicily's charming Taormina a shopping stop, or relax at a cafe.
Quite a few itineraries will combine Western and Eastern Mediterranean stops, which is no big deal at all -- except that you'll have less time in Spain, France and Italy. Look for those in particular that sail between Rome and either Athens or Venice (major embarkation ports for all-Western Mediterranean voyages typically include Lisbon, Barcelona, Nice and Rome).
Some cities (such as Florence, Rome and Avignon) are quite a distance from the ports that serve them (Livorno, Civitavecchia and Marseilles, respectively). That can result in a long and rushed day of sightseeing. Check out our port profiles for other options in the areas of their ports.
Two final caveats about cruising in the Western Mediterranean. It's hot in the summer. It gets so hot that some shore excursions are exercises in perspiration-dripping frustration. Climbing the steps to get into the Alhambra in Granada, for example, or wandering the unshaded ruins in Pompeii, can exhaust and dehydrate you before you even know it's happening. If you think there will be a problem with that, either choose a midsummer cruise that has a more passive, beach-y itinerary or plan your holiday for late spring, fall or even winter when it's cooler. And finally, with all of the ships crisscrossing the Mediterranean Sea, look carefully at the itineraries. Barcelona and Rome are the most popular embarkation points for larger ships; those cities can handle thousands of passengers at one time. But if your ship will be joining two or three others for port stops in smaller towns like Portofino or St. Tropez, you could be facing pedestrian traffic jams and crowds that you hadn't anticipated when you decided on a cruise holiday in the first place.
Ultimately, the biggest challenge you're likely to face has nothing to do with choosing your cruise or picking shore outings. Take it from this multi-time visitor: It'll be forcing yourself to get on that plane to go home.
Of course you can always come back next year, or even sooner ... some cruise lines operate ships in the region all year round!
Best for First-Timers
The Ship: Princess Cruises' Sea Princess
Why: At 77,000 tons and carrying just 1,950 passengers, it's not too big and not too small, with the typical Princess style of modern amenities mixed with old-world charm. Its cruises, roundtrip from London (Southampton), provide ideal samplers of the major Western Mediterranean countries, traveling to Italy, France, Spain and Portugal from early spring through late August. We love that travelers can opt for personal choice (flexible) dining or the traditional cruise scenario. The ship has plenty of balconies. And on those wonderful, restful sea days, you can't get bored, with three pools, a huge spa, the fabulous Movies Under the Stars open-air cinema screen and a variety of restaurants from a buffet venue to the elegant Sterling Steakhouse.
Itineraries: There are two alternating 14-night itineraries. One calls first in Vigo and includes stops in Lisbon, Cannes, Naples and Corsica; the other calls first in Cadiz and includes stops in Monte Carlo, Livorno (for Florence and Pisa), Sardinia and Mallorca. Both offer visits to Rome, Barcelona, and that resolutely British isthmus off the Spanish coast, Gibraltar.
What's Neat: Onboard, folks in balcony cabins should try the "Ultimate Balcony Dinner" -- we can't think of a more romantic way to dine. The ship attracts people of all ages. If you can keep your eyes open after dinner, there are plenty of entertainment options. For first-time visitors, the ambience onboard (American mixed with British) is welcoming after sightseeing in foreign ports, and shore excursion selections tend toward "highlights" types of experiences that are perfect for new European cruisers.
Downside? While Princess is an American cruise company, Sea Princess is dedicated to the U.K. market. That, and the fact that it leaves from Southampton, can give it a homogeneous atmosphere as opposed to a genuinely multicultural experience.
Best for Seniors
Ship: Oceania Cruises' Regatta, Insignia or Nautica
Why: These ships are just the perfect size: Measuring 30,277 tons and carrying 684 passengers, they're big enough to offer a range of restaurants and lounges but small enough to feel cozy and intimate. The line tends to attract mature travelers who have seen much of the world. Another plus: This is a cruise line that promotes affordable balconies, so you don't have to go broke to get one. And finally? All three ships in the fleet have been upgraded with plush bedding and upscale amenities.
Itineraries: Itineraries range from 10 to 14 nights and call at a nice blend of marquee ports and more offbeat ones. Stops include Marseille, Monte Carlo, Livorno (for Florence), Civitavecchia (for Rome), Amalfi, Taormina, Malta and Venice.
What's Neat: The atmosphere onboard is country club casual and the decor is country manor gorgeous; the ships are small enough that you really get to meet passengers (and we love the all-open-seating dining); the faux fireplaces in the library and main restaurant bar provide the perfect classy touch.
Downside? The ships don't handle rough water very well (pack your remedy of choice); shore excursions are pretty ordinary; ports of call, while fascinating, are not terribly exotic. Rooms, until you get to the suite level, tend to be really small, with miniscule bathrooms.
Best for Families
Ship: Royal Caribbean's Independence of the Seas
Why: Wow. "Indy," as the ship is lovingly called, is the newest in the Freedom class of ultra-vessels from Royal Caribbean, which launches its inaugural season out of Southampton in May 2008. Measuring a whopping 160,000 tons with a double-occupancy base of 3,634, this ship, along with its siblings (Freedom of the Seas and Liberty of the Seas), is the largest in the world. It's a floating resort, a whirlwind of activity, dining, pampering, entertainment, activities and family fun. Returning from your forays ashore hardly spells the end of your excitement for the day -- that's if you want to get off at all.
Itineraries: Independence of the Seas homeports in Southampton and operates a series of 14 night cruises through the summer months (alternating 10- and 11-night Canary Island cruises). Depending on your dates of travel, the cruises might include Cannes, Livorno (for Florence/Pisa), Nice, Malaga, Vigo, Cagliari (Sardinia), Barcelona or Civitavecchia (for Rome). They all include Gibraltar and Lisbon.
What's Neat: Where to start? The FlowRider surf simulator. Ice skating. Rock climbing. An entire shopping mall within the ship. Whirlpool hot tubs that are cantilevered over the ocean. Spacious and elegant staterooms, salsa dancing at night, an enormous spa and fitness center. A boxing ring. Miniature golf. And Adventure Ocean for kids, including Fuel and The Living Room clubs for teens and Fisher-Price Aqua Babies and Aqua Tots for children from 18 months to 3 years old.
Downside? While there are plenty of activities for parents and their brood to do together, a child must be 3 or over -- and potty trained -- to use the kid's club alone. The sheer size of the ship can be exhausting and tendering in Nice and Cannes, with a full passenger load, is bound to be trying. The shore excursions tend to be generic. Traditional dining also means that you have to rush back from shore to get ready for early-seating supper (the dining time of choice for families with young kids).
Best For Exotic Itineraries
Ship: Star Clipper's Royal Clipper or Windstar's Wind Surf
Why: These are true sailing ships (though they operate by motor as well) and both offer an intimate cruise experience and unique ports of call. The ships are small – Wind Surf measures only 14,475 tons and has room for 308 passengers, while Royal Clipper's numbers are 5,000 and 227 respectively -- and attract travelers from numerous countries so there's a real international flair onboard. And while cabins are smaller than on traditional cruise ships and entertainment is somewhat muted (Wind Surf does, however, have a casino), dining is first-rate.
Itineraries: For the 2008 season, Royal Clipper homeports in Rome (Civitavecchia) and visits Ponza, Sorrento and Capri, Amalfi, Taormina, and Lipari, with an evening sail past the Stromboli volcano. Most of Wind Surf's itineraries are seven-night voyages between Rome and Barcelona, but there are a few that start or end in Monte Carlo -- and a couple that miss the Western Mediterranean altogether, concentrating instead on the Adriatic. Wind Surf's port calls include Sorrento, Mallorca, Capri, Portofino, Spain's Mahon and Tarragonia, France's Sete and Porquerolles, St. Tropez, Porto Vecchio, Corsica's Ajaccio and Elba's Portoferraio.
What's Neat: Sailing, rather than cruising, on the Mediterranean offers a whole different viewpoint. Beyond the actual act of sailing, the ships' facilities and amenities aren't by any stretch as lavish or varied as those on upscale cruise vessels but they are sophisticated in a comfortable way. Wind Surf's sails are electronically activated and augment the “motor yacht,” while Royal Clipper's motor augments the wind power.
Downside? A handful of shore excursions are offered -- a call at the port for Florence includes the "usual" city tour or a trip to Cinque Terre -- but both Star Clippers' and Windstar's travelers are typically independently minded enough to venture out freely.
Best for Solo Travelers
Ship: Fred. Olsen's Balmoral
Why: The latest addition to the fleet (the recently acquired and renamed Norwegian Crown) has been stretched, gussied up and fitted with tons of single rooms. While Fred. Olsen typically caters to the over-50 crowd, this ship brings a youthful atmosphere with the addition of balcony cabins and the line's first onboard pub. Being able to experience a Mediterranean cruise without paying the single supplement or having to hunt down a compatible roommate puts this ship at the top of our list.
Itineraries: One of the things that we find appealing about Balmoral's inaugural Mediterranean cruising season is that the ship offers a range of cruises from 9 to 21 nights; some combine both the Eastern and Western Med from Rome's Civitavecchia, while others leave from Dover and include Lisbon on the Atlantic. Combining some of the more standard ports such as Barcelona and Naples with offbeat stops such as Tunis and Malta makes for nice, fully-rounded itineraries. Those who so choose may also get a taste of the Greek Isles (Brindisi, Rhodes) while also exploring Italy's west coast. The itineraries are all over the map, so to speak. There are plenty of choices.
What's Neat: Fred. Olsen's packages include roundtrip air so there's never a worry about having to deal with that on your own. The fact that Balmoral is the biggest and newest ship in the Olsen fleet brings its own excitement into the mix. The addition of balconied staterooms (including those for solos) spells "winner" to us, but the pub, pool and spa are icing on the proverbial cake in terms of shipboard amenities. The mix of longer and shorter cruises offers plenty of options for solos and with the number of single staterooms on this ship, there should be plenty of like-minded travelers with whom to congregate.
Downside? The same thing that makes these trips uniquely Fred. Olsen can also be seen as a detriment: They cater to an older crowd. With this mix of itineraries and cruise lengths, coupled with a newly refurbished ship, a younger "vibe" would be nice.
Best for Budget-Minded Cruisers
Ship: Island Cruises' Island Star
Why: For those looking for a casual, friendly ambiance, you don't sacrifice quality for the reasonable prices of these trips; in fact, you get a "best of" experience. Some of the itineraries are brilliant with their mix of popular and less-busy destinations, and the money you save by booking on Island Star can be used for other pursuits -- shopping, for example.
Itineraries: Island Star's jumping-off point (it homeports in Palma de Mallorca) is ideal for the range of seven-night itineraries offered. The least expensive, starting at just £399 per person, visits Messina (Sicily), Livorno for Florence and Pisa, Naples, France's Toulon, and Barcelona. Other itineraries include offbeat destinations such as Mahon (Menorca), Ajaccio (Corsica), Alghero (Sardinia), and Italy's Santa Margherita.
What's Neat: By today's standards, this 47,000-ton vessel is a small ship; it loses nothing, however, in its fun and casual atmosphere, and its size also allows it to get into ports that the mega-monsters can't access. Open-seating dining and the choice of five restaurants add to the casual, comfortable atmosphere. After an exhausting day of sightseeing on these port-intensive itineraries, no one wants to rush back to make it on time for dinner. There's also a restful spa and the ship is family-friendly.
Downside? Whereas the cruise fare is reasonable, the cost of standard shore excursions seems higher than necessary. Also, the low price might attract more families with younger kids during the summer months, making for a loud and rowdy experience.
Best for All-Around Luxury
Ship: Hebridean's Hebridean Spirit
Why: It looks like a yacht. It feels like an elegant country inn. It has no pretensions and you have no worries. You'd think that a capacity of just 96 passengers, spacious and upscale cabins (even the smallest measure over 200 square ft.), attentive staff, and gourmet dining would be plenty. But Hebridean also includes libations, enrichment speakers and at least one privately escorted tour on each voyage. With a ship this small, getting into little-known ports is a snap, adding to the exclusivity of the experience.
Itineraries: Most of the cruises range between six and eight nights and almost all have a theme of some sort. Walking, food and wine, arts, or gardens feature prominently. "Footloose on Spanish Shores," for example, offers walking tours in Malaga, Alicante and Motril with other stops in Mallorca, Menorca and Cartagena. "A Visual Feast" features museum and art tours in Lipari, Naples, Catania and Malta. In June, there's a "Grand Prix Extravaganza," during which guests of Hebridean Spirit are invited to sit on the balcony of a private apartment in Monte Carlo overlooking the entire race.
What's Neat: How nice to come back, after a day of exhausting walking or museum-hopping, to this cool and elegant setting, get a cocktail, beer or glass of wine, and be served. There's a lovely, well-equipped spa to get achy muscles massaged and a top-deck sundeck with loungers from which to enjoy the sunsets.
Downside? Oh, how lovely it would be if this charming little gem had balconied rooms. It doesn't. And there's no swimming pool, either.
Best for Short Sampler Getaways
Ship: Royal Caribbean's Navigator of the Seas
Why: This 138,000-ton, 3,114-passenger ship is one of the biggest on our list and a perfect venue for a short holiday -- both for Americans with a pre- or post-cruise land vacation, and for Europeans with easy access to Barcelona, its departure port.
Itineraries: The ship sails a series of four- and five-night cruises. The four-night cruise calls at Villefranche (for Nice) with an overnight in Ibiza. The five-night cruise has alternate routes: Cannes, Livorno and Rome's Civitavecchia on one, Marseilles, Cagliari (Sardinia) and Palermo on the other. Both offer a day at sea, which is one of the reasons we chose Navigator of the Seas.
What's Neat: A ship like this is a destination unto itself, with an ice-skating rink (a fabulous retreat in the midsummer heat of the Med), a miniature golf course, a world-class shopping arcade, a dreamy spa and multiple entertainment options. Even on these shorter cruises, it manages to pack in a couple of standout ports, and because it has stellar teen facilities and activities, it's an ideal short break option for a family with teens.
Downside? Shorter cruises tend to be frenetic and not particularly restful. With a passenger capacity of over 3,000, the few ports that require tenders (Villefranche, Cannes) can be frustrating as one waits to get off -- and then back on -- the ship.
Best for Honeymooners and Romantics
Ship: SeaDream Yacht Club's SeaDream I or SeaDream II
Why: The 110-passenger SeaDream yachts have many of the trimmings of larger cruise vessels: pocket-sized casinos, piano bars, spas and several restaurants. The ambience onboard is luxurious in a low-key way, superlative in terms of cuisine and service; cozy cabins are outfitted with flat-screen televisions, feather beds, and bathrooms with showers built for two. In fact, the ship is so lovely we don't really care where it goes!
Itineraries: Of course it does sail, and calls are primarily offbeat with a handful of big cities thrown in. For instance, a Monte Carlo-to-Civitavecchia trip lists Viareggio and Porto Ercole, Italy on the roster along with St. Tropez, Portofino and Elba. A Rome-to-Barcelona trip features Monte Carlo, Marseille and Italy's Viareggio. Most cruises are only seven days long -- so don't expect too many (if any) lazy sea days -- but that gives you time to begin or end your trip with an on-land stay.
What's Neat: We love the onboard intimacy; the unique, small-group shore tours offered in port; and the ship's all-inclusive policy, which includes everything (caviar, Champagne, wine, gratuities) but shore excursions. The ship's sports platform has all manner of water sports toys from kayaks to a banana boat and from sailboats to jet skis. Don't miss a nap on one of the fabulous Balinese beds that wrap around the smokestack and offer glorious views as well as comfortable lounging.
Downside? You ultimately have to debark! Other than that, some folks may regret the lack of private balconies; we cared for about one minute after we got onboard and then forgot about them altogether (the cabins are so cozy and the Balinese beds are a great substitute).
Best for Enrichment
Ship: Crystal Cruises' Crystal Serenity
Why: Crystal's Creative Learning Institute features instruction on a range of subjects. Offerings include foreign language and computer skills classes; art workshops; and cooking, music and dance exhibitions. In addition, through its Visions program, the line arranges for experts to speak on topics such as political science, current affairs, food and wine, astronomy, art, and antiques.
Itineraries: During the summer, Crystal Serenity sails a number of different itineraries. Many, such as a Venice-to-Barcelona run, blend Eastern and Western Mediterranean ports of call. Cruises typically last from 10 to 14 nights. In the spring, Crystal Serenity offers a more offbeat look at some Western Mediterranean ports -- ports of call vary by itinerary, but might include Bordeaux (France), Bilbao and Valencia (Spain), Lisbon or Monte Carlo.
What's Neat: The ship is elegant, the cuisine generally exceptional and the service luxurious; penthouse cabins come with butlers who do much to enhance your trip, from making reservations in onboard restaurants to giving great recommendations for in-port activities. Sea days are so much fun, whether you're participating in one of the Creative Learning Institute programs, enjoying a Mozart-themed afternoon tea or diving into a fabulous themed lunch buffet (the best in cruising). This ship also has a particularly lovely spa and there's no hard product sell after treatments.
Downside: This ship tends to attract veteran cruisers -- many have been to Europe time and time again -- yet the shore excursions are pretty run of the mill. And there's no real effort to tie the destinations in with the onboard enrichment programs.
--by Carolyn Spencer Brown, Editor in Chief. Updated by Jana Jones, Cruise Critic contributor.