Hebridean Princess Review

Anyone who's ever fantasized about being an extra in the Scottish wedding scene from Four Weddings and a Funeral will simply love this little ship – it epitomizes traditional British style at its very best.

Carrying just 48 passengers and designed to resemble a country house at sea, Hebridean Princess is literally fit for a queen: Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II sailed on her, twice. The British monarch chartered the vessel in 2006 for a cruise to celebrate her 80th birthday, and again four years later. There is also a signed portrait of her and Prince Philip behind the Reception desk and a huge Royal Charter ("By Appointment to...") in the Lookout Lounge.

Hebridean Princess has a fascinating past: built in 1964 at the height of the Cold War, the ship was the third of three sisters (the others two were MV Hebrides and MV Clansman) originally designed as command centers in the event of a nuclear war. Originally named Columba (the Dining Room makes a nod to this past), the ship has inch-thick steel in the hull, a decontamination chamber, and outside sprinklers to rinse off radiation. She also has her original stabilizers – unheard of in a ship of this age –which make navigating these sometimes choppy waters a real relief.

Tiree Lounge on Hebridean Princess (Photo: Adam Coulter)

Columba went straight into service as a Caledonian MacBrayne car ferry plying the Isle of Mull route with vehicles loaded on by crane. In 1988 she was acquired by Hebridean Island Cruises, who began transforming it from an intra-island workhorse into the gorgeous mini country house at sea she now is, with cozy cabins, a brick fireplace in the Tiree lounge and exceptional service.

The ship still carries a few ghosts of its ferry past – notably quite juddery engines and an old-fashioned forced air system of air conditioning via pull-down ventilation slats in the ceilings – but these are minor issues, more than compensated by the uniqueness and exclusivity of Hebridean Princess.

This exclusivity does not come cheap, however: for example, a seven-night sailing in September 2024 will set you back £5,390 per person for an outside double; the price is easily double that for a stateroom with a balcony.

In this frantic, wired-up, high-speed, connected world, Hebridean Princess harks back to a bygone era, where simple pleasures define the experience: a heart-stopping view, fresh local fare, convivial company and old-fashioned luxury.

If you want to see Bonnie Scotland in unforgettable style, this is the way to do it.

Hebridean Princess’ Deck Plan

Hebridean Princess moored at Handa island (Photo: Adam Coulter)

Hebridean Princess has just five decks, with the top deck given over to viewing spots for the stunning scenery and wildlife that you’ll spy in this part of the world. The Navigation Bridge is also up here, and the ship operates an open Bridge policy in case you’d like to see what the Captain sees.

One deck down is the Promenade Deck, where you’ll find a more sheltered outdoor viewing area at the aft with a small, unmanned bar area (the Skye Bar) with a kettle, tea and a Nespresso machine. At the other end is the heart of the ship, the Tiree Lounge, where you’ll find plenty of comfortable seating, 270-degree picture windows, a real brick fireplace and a small bar.

Columba Dining Room on Hebridean Princess (Photo: Adam Coulter)

The Columba Restaurant is on the Princess Deck, where you’ll find the reception (mostly unmanned) and a small gift shop.

The Waterfront Deck houses the gym and bikes, as well as cabins; the deck below (Hebridean Deck) has four small cabins.

It’s worth noting that Hebridean Princess has no provision for anyone with accessibility issues; stairs are vertiginous, there is no elevator, and every cabin has a lip around doors.

Cabins on Hebridean Princess Are Unique And Homely

Torosay Castle cabin on Hebridean Princess (Photo: Adam Coulter)

There are 28 cabins on Hebridean Princess, including one suite, and every one of them is unique. Some have picture windows, some have portholes and a handful have balconies, but what makes them all special is how none look or feel what you might expect in a “typical” cruise ship cabin: All resemble a room in a country house hotel, perhaps one in a converted Scottish castle, whether that’s the homely Scottish décor throughout, the bathrooms with tubs and gold-plated taps or the “wee dram” of whisky left in your room.

Of course, the ship’s age means modern touches like USB ports, flat screen TVs and air conditioning are non-existent, but it really doesn’t matter when you settle into what really feels like a home from home at sea.

Hebridean Princess also has a high proportion of single cabins – eight – in keeping with the demographic who sail onboard.

Not all cabins are created equal, however and those to avoid are the four insides clustered together below the Water Deck and near the engine, making them prone to noise and vibration from the not-so-distant diesels.

Queen Elizabeth II stayed in the Isle of Berneray room, which has cream and blue decor and a small private balcony looking out from the side of the ship.

Food on Hebridean Princess is Outstanding

Hebridean Princess buffet (Photo: Adam Coulter)

There is just one restaurant onboard – The Columba – where you’ll eat all your meals. Food on Hebridean Princess is locally sourced, fresh, made to order and is hands down consistently the best food we have eaten on a cruise ship.

You’ll enjoy local oysters, fresh-caught local fish and meats and game from across Scotland. And if anything is not to your liking – just say, and the obliging kitchen staff will simply serve you what you would like.

Nothing is too much trouble – if you want champagne and oysters to start your meal every day, or perhaps haggis for breakfast – or perhaps you want to sit at another table or with another couple – no problem: the crew will simply set a table in the Library for you.