We chose this 2 week cruise at Christmas because of the amazing itinerary. It visited some islands we hadn't visited before, including Guadeloupe, where we wanted to do the "Death in Paradise" tour, going to the locations used in the TV series. The ship didn't offer this but we booked an excellent tour through Viator. The ship looked clean and the decor was stylish, but our inside cabins 12135 and 12139 smelt strongly of cigarette smoke at some times of the day for the whole cruise. When we complained, reception staff were sympathetic and polite but ultimately ineffectual. They told us to call whenever it smelt bad and they would send someone up. We called but no-one turned up after the first occasion. On this occasion it was implied that the problem was due to the air intake for the air conditioning being on a smoking deck. As a previous reviewer has mentioned there are so many smoking areas, that cigarette smoke has infiltrated the whole air conditioning system, although all of the ship did not smell as bad as our cabins. We may have been unlucky with the air conditioning in these cabins as damp swimsuits took 3 times longer to dry than on other cruise ships. Also we did one previous MSC cruise on a different ship and I don't remember having the same problem. The other problem with this ship was no provision for gluten-free food in the buffet. The celiac in our party was told by a buffet manager he must eat only in the main dining room. This is disappointing as gluten-free pizzas and fries are available on other cruise lines. However the dining room staff were very good and friendly, as were the majority of staff on board. Finally, the embarkation in Pointe a Pitre was appalling. We were made to wait on the street until 14.00, one hour after the time we had been given, before the the port gates were opened, and then there was a stampede!