(6:15 p.m. EDT) -- Out on the deck of Stephen Taber, a 149-year-old schooner that is one of only two overnight passenger ships currently sailing in the United States, the wind picks up. I shiver, despite the numerous layers donned to protect against the chilly Maine night. The galley below deck, heated by a massive wood-burning stove, seems warm and inviting.
I begin the mental gymnastics that have become second nature during the pandemic, with conflicting feelings cartwheeling through my head. Everyone onboard, both crew and passengers, has been COVID tested (in some cases, twice, thanks to entrance requirements from both the state of Maine and Taber's