Champa Pandaw Dining

Editor Rating
4.0
Very Good
Dining
Chris Gray Faust
Executive Editor, U.S.

Most Western passengers are unfamiliar with Laotian cuisine, but Champa Pandaw's able dining staff does a good job of introducing the flavors of the region, while still offering less adventurous palates a choice. Execution of most dishes is good, not great; although the cuisine isn't gourmet, we never saw anyone walk away from a meal hungry.

All meals are served in the boat's open-air dining room on the upper deck. At times, this outdoor setup felt incongruous with the staff's warnings against biting mosquitoes, but as long as you applied bug spray -- there's always some left out for people who didn't bring their own -- you could dine without an insect invasion. In particularly buggy areas, the staff turned off the boat's main lights, and we dined by battery-operated candlelight. One meal was notably interrupted when the staff discovered a giant rhinoceros beetle walking around deck, but the resulting mixed reactions of screams and scientific interest from passengers provoked hilarity more than anything else.

Dining tables were originally set up in groups of four, but on our cruise, the staff pushed several together so passengers could get to know each other in a larger group. All in all, the dining room staff aim to please, whether it concerns food allergies, beverage preferences or spice levels in the cuisine. For such a small vessel, a wide range of issues were accommodated.

To reduce waste, lunch and dinner entrees are chosen at breakfast, which also gives people time to make any special requests. Portion sizes are refreshingly small, so you don't feel bad ordering every course at lunch or dinner.

Breakfast begins at 7 a.m., but pastries, coffee and tea are set out at 6 a.m. for early risers. The meal is a mix of buffet and made-to-order, with yogurt, toast, cereal, fruit and smoked meats spread out for passengers to grab as they wish. A rotating menu of Western breakfast favorites like omelets, eggs Benedict, pancakes and French toast is offered. We particularly enjoyed the daily hot Asian breakfast option, which ranged from stir-fried mushrooms to rice noodles.

The timing of lunch depends on the morning excursion and schedule. A buffet includes a choice of cold salads, a soup like ba mee bpet (egg noodles with duck), freshly made baguettes and a selection of international cheeses and nuts. There are usually three entree options, with at least one Western and one vegetarian choice. Examples might include goong pao (Thai grilled river lobster with "angry" -- spicy! -- sauce), chicken breast with green peppercorn sauce, and kai yad sai (a stuffed omelet). Spicy dishes are marked with a chili on the menu, and there's also chili sauce on the table if you want to add more heat. Desserts include fruit and a daily changing option, such as creme caramel or bread pudding.

Dinner is held at 7:30 p.m. after the evening briefing. It's a waiter-served four-course meal, with a set appetizer, soup, main and dessert. A typical menu might begin with larb moo (a Lao spicy minced pork salad) and lao pho soup, followed by a choice of entrees, such as khao soi (Chiang Mai noodles); barbecued New Zealand lamb cutlets with pan-fried potatoes, grilled onions, French beans and rosemary jus; and gai pad med mamuang (stir-fried chicken with cashews). Dessert could be creme brulee and seasonal fruit. While not every meal was a standout, there were times when the chef showed his prowess; an evening of New York strip steaks earned kudos from passengers impressed that every entree was perfectly cooked to order.

For those who have the wine package -- on our trip, this was everyone -- house bottles of about five varietals (two whites and three reds) are included and free flowing at meals. Cocktails made with local spirits are free, as are soft drinks and local beer. A selection of premium wines is available to purchase.

During the day, passengers can snack on cookies and nuts that are offered in a jar near the filtered water station, and a platter of fresh fruit is available in the bar. Appetizers, such as fish cakes, are passed around during happy hour.

There is no room service.

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