The real entertainment onboard Seabourn Legend occurs at The Restaurant or whatever theme eatery is being offered in the Veranda Cafe. A leisurely meal, good wine, delicious food, and stimulating conversation meant that many folks spent two hours plus at the table, and that was a highlight for me, night after night. The passengers, in essence, make their own entertainment. Beyond that, this is not a ship for those who want round-the-clock activity.
The second most rocking spot onboard was found at sailaway, almost always at just about sunset, at the Sky Bar; the outdoor bar, a deck above the pool area, has small cocktail tables undercover and larger ones -- all covered with white linen cloths -- scattered around the deck. Every night was like a cocktail party.
Editor's Note: Seabourn's three ships all feature an inclusive beverage policy, so there's no charge for house wine, liquor, beer and sodas. You can opt to purchase "top shelf" items; the house wine choices in particular seemed a bit pedestrian, and I was tempted to buy a better bottle one night.
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There were a handful of evening musical shows -- and while all three of the main performers had beautiful voices, the pace -- quite frenetic, with lots of costume changes, and music that spanned decades every night -- was exhausting. As well, the King Olav, the ship's primary theater venue, is a fairly intimate space -- and low ceilinged -- and so these high energy shows seemed out of place.
A pre- and post-dinner option was Viva, a husband and wife duo -- she sings, he plays the piano. They held court in The Club, the ship's secondary venue. They, too, were a disappointment -- she sang out of tune. This was the place to dance -- and it was sweet to watch couples perform the obviously well practiced ritual. The place to go for music, I discovered just in the nick of time, was the Midnight Sun Lounge with jazz and favorites offered at tea time and after dinner.
On a couple of nights movies were shown; and they were good ones ("The Queen" and "The Last King of Scotland") -- right after they'd won major Academy Awards.
Easily the most joyful and plain-old-fun evening bash was the ship's Fruit Flambe Under the Stars, an after-dinner event where chefs created a beautiful array of desserts out on the pool deck and the Navigators, the ship's fantastic all-purpose band, played for people to dance. Just a lovely evening and yes, we were rewarded with a sparkly black sky.
During the day, activities are fairly limited -- this ship appeals to people who can find their own fun, whether it's meeting fellow travelers or curling up in your suite with a good book or movie. But you can participate, on sea days, in a range of activities, such as tour talks, cooking demos, bridge, casino gaming lessons, a matinee movie, galley tour, ice cream social and golf putting competition. Or you can have a long lunch and take a nap! On port days, when most people are off the ship on shore tours, social bridge games are offered. But that's pretty much it.
Speaking of shore excursions, Seabourn Legend offered a solid selection of offerings, ranging from standard island tours for less mobile passengers to more adventurous options (kayak rides, nature hikes, and horseback rides, among others).
What proved disappointing however was a lack -- at least on our cruise -- of really unique options. Ironically, the two most interesting were offered in St. Kitts (so you had to choose); one was a tour of artist studios and another was a day at Rawlins Plantation, a charming small island hotel. I opted for the second, and while it was indeed a lovely experience (complete with a West Indian buffet lunch, use of the pool, grounds, and even the grass tennis court if desired, as well as roundtrip transportation in a minivan), there were a couple of disconcerting issues that perhaps show a carelessness on the cruise line's part in monitoring shore outings.
First, Seabourn's own brochures on the tour listed spa options as an a la carte part of the day. Rawlins, it turned out, doesn't have a spa (though the owners told us they can request massage therapists and the like to perform treatments in a room onsite; reservations must be made 24 hours in advance). Obviously, the tour company that Seabourn uses on the island was responsible for the discrepancy, but a little bit of quality control by the line would have eliminated the inaccuracies. As well, the $280 per person price, which seemed outrageous at first glance, was also outrageous in reality. Pleasant as it was, that tour was embarrassingly overpriced, and fellow passengers did complain about it to the shore excursion personnel onboard.
And yet Seabourn offers one of the great experiences in cruising with its "Exclusively Seabourn" program. On our Caribbean voyage, officers and crew take over a private island with a beach bar in Virgin Gorda; there's a fabulous barbecue, open bar, watersports, and a spa hut, where ship's therapists offer 20-minute rubdowns. The piece de resistance: Two waiters wade through the surf with a surfboard on which is perched a huge mound of caviar, complete with fixings; champagne is served; and guests mix and mingle in the surf. The whole day passes like a dream -- for this Caribbean veteran, it was the most magical, relaxing, pleasant beach outing ever.
And it was clear that the hard working crew, plowing through the sand to serve drinks, provide towels and fulfill all manner of requests was having a ball, too.
Editor's Note: Folks traveling on Seabourn Legend in the Mediterranean also experience an "Exclusively Seabourn" outing, but these vary depending on itinerary. You could go to an exclusive reception at Els Calderers, a historic country manor house dating from the 13th century, in Palma de Mallorca. Or in Sousse, Tunisia, passengers enjoy traditional local delicacies and enchanting Tunisian music in an aristocratic Moorish home in the Old Town. And in Dubrovnik? It's a private evening in the medieval Revelin Fortress, enlivened by an internationally acclaimed Croatian folkloric troupe.
My first impression of Seabourn Legend, upon entering its small atrium, was of the absence of color. There's no outstanding design feature to catch your eye. Bland you could say. And undramatic, too, as well as a tad dated; from public rooms to private ones, the furnishings definitely won't put you in a sleek boutique hotel frame of mind.
On the other hand, I've never sailed on a ship where I've felt such a soothing atmosphere onboard. The ship's public rooms serve as a pleasant but never intrusive backdrop to good conversation. Wandering down corridors (you don't have to go far -- that's nice in its own right) I don't remember much about the decor or the art on the walls, but I do remember the way that stewardesses, waiters, entertainment stars and, yes, the captain, all say hello, offer a warm greeting, and look you in the eye so you know they mean it.
The atrium serves as the business-of-vacationing center -- it's home to the purser's desk, which handles everything from RSVP's to invitations to join hosted tables at dinner to DVD checkouts, and a shore excursion office, which honestly was closed every time I strolled by (of course it could have been a case of bad timing). But the Atrium really is a place that you walk through to go somewhere else.
Most of the entertainment venues are located forward, one atop the other, starting on Deck 5 with the King Olav Lounge; above it on Deck 6 is The Club, the cabaret lounge. (The small casino, with a few table games in a glass-walled enclosure and a handful of slot machines tucked away in a closet-like space in the back, is off to the side.) Above that is the somewhat underused Midnight Sun lounge with its floor-to-ceiling windows; during the day, there are great views from the outer deck that encircles it.
On Deck 6 you'll find the library (compact but very well stocked, and I was impressed to see not only newish release books but also recent DVD's there). Adjacent is a well-stocked game room with three tables for cards and a great selection of board games (Scrabble, Parcheesi, Taboo and others); in that room, a nice morning touch, you'll find a selection of coffee, juice and pastries.
I found the ship's boutique boring -- it's rare that I don't buy something onboard a ship, but in this case the only purchase was made to replace a lipstick. It's mostly stocked with jewelry and tchockes that while pricey were in no way distinguished (I would have loved, for instance, to tote home a selection of the fabulous Molton Brown bathroom products that were stocked in my cabin.).
A deck below is the compact but efficient Internet cafe. There are four terminals and there's no per-minute option; you can only access the Internet via packages, ranging from 30 minutes for $13.50 (minimum) to 32 hours for $479.95 (there are five other options in between). The packages also apply to wireless access, available in cabins. The connections were, by and large, quite efficient. The ship does not have GSM cell phone capability, however.
There's a laundromat tucked away on Deck 4 -- two washers, two dryers, instructions in German (but crew was very helpful); though I used the ship's laundry for most attire, it's nice to have the option to clean your, er, intimates, yourself. There's no charge to use the machines and soap is available.
A note is posted at the spa's welcome desk: "All of our therapists are currently performing treatments on other guests and we are unable to assist you at this time." A pad of paper was provided for passengers to list requested treatments and times. I found this absolutely charming -- and evocative of the ship's casual and cozy ambience. You'll get a call when someone's free, and they'll do their best to slot you in.
No question, the facility is small -- small that is if you're used to huge two-level spa/gym set-ups. But that's to be expected. And even with such limited space, the spa sure didn't stint on treatments; these ranged from stone therapy massage ($178), and body wraps from Ocean Wraps ($180) to Lime and Ginger Salt Glow ($180). There are facials -- for women and men, both -- and an anti-arthritic ceremony. The salon, part of the tiny facility, features the usual -- hair styling, cut and coloring, cleansing rituals, massages and pedicures. Pricing wise, the Swedish massage is $111 -- and that's about average, in cruising, for an onboard 50-minute massage.
One of the challenges for a spa in a ship this size is the staffing -- in this case there was one nail technician, one hairdresser and three massage therapist/facial experts. On our cruise, a seven-night sailing with a lot of passengers for whom spa treatments are a regular occurrence (home or away), the facility was pretty busy throughout the cruise, and making a reservation proved important. (A spontaneous request for a pedicure later on in the voyage was met with a "sorry, we're sold out for the week.") I was told that managing requests are definitely more challenging on the seven-night voyages than on longer cruises.
If the treatments are performed professionally and the menu offers variety, the disappointment here is the facility itself is beyond drab (and is it so hard to gussy up a massage room with a little bit of scent and some Tahitian fabrics?). At the very least replacing the hideous lighting would be a start.
Operated by Steiner, which has a lock on cruise line spa operations, I was appalled to hear that their policy of selling products, often pushing them quite strongly, was permitted on a ship of this caliber. It is, however, a reflection of the passengers who sail on Seabourn that one woman, who was suffering buyer's remorse after a way-too-excessive post-treatment shopping spree, told me she didn't have the heart to return them. "The therapist was so sweet," she said, "and I know she earns commission."
Having sworn to maintain some sort of fitness regimen, I was among those who were casually committed to some sort of routine; in Seabourn Legend's gym all but the most voracious fitness buffs will find just the right amount of equipment. The Life Fitness equipment was arranged for circuit training. And an adequate supply of treadmills and bicycles are topped with flat-screen televisions tuned to ship channels. The mini-fridge filled with bottled water, though commonly found in more upscale ship fitness facilities, is a welcome touch nevertheless.
The ship also schedules classes in Yoga and Pilates, for which there is no additional charge, and offers individualized personal training sessions and a metabolism test (for which there is).
Seabourn Legend's pool deck is actually centered around two huge Jacuzzis instead of a swimming pool (The salt water pool itself is tucked into a private alcove between a glassed-in stairwell and the Verandah Cafe.). There's plenty of space on the teak deck for lots of lounge chairs (white plastic with puffy blue cushions) both here and on Deck 8, just above. However, beware, especially on sea days: The loungers are placed along the running/walking track and clog it up, so you should plan to get your exercise either very early or very late. Sixteen laps, by the way, equal a mile.
One neat complimentary feature is "massage moments" -- therapists come on out to the pool deck and wander around, their fingers making music on bodies ravaged by airplane flights. Lovely.
Way aft is my favorite part of Deck 8 -- it's a nice broad space that, when not used by shuffle boarders, is a lovely away-from-the-crowd spot for sunning.
One of Legend's claims to fame is its fabulous water sports platform. Low down and far aft, the fold-out marina can only be used when at anchor in port, and only then from time to time. It's equipped with windsurfers, sailboats, Zodiacs, water skis, banana boat, pedal boat and snorkeling equipment. In the center of the marina is a stainless steel mesh pool (to keep guests in and sea life out). It proved a disappointment on our trip, if only in scheduling; while anchored off Nevis, our captain made a bit of a last minute announcement at lunchtime that it would be open for two hours that afternoon but for folks already off the ship and those of who had afternoon plans, it meant we missed out entirely. Too bad because it's a unique and fantastic feature that few ships can offer.
On our sailing there was one family with young children, and though they were very well behaved -- and their parents handled them impeccably -- there was quite a bit of buzz from the mostly senior passengers about the presence of young ones. While they were well cared for, this really isn't a ship for younger children. There are few activities and facilities are nil.